Friday, December 22, 2006

Greetings - Urime !




SEASON’S GREETINGS AND BEST WISHES FOR THE NEW YEAR TO ONE AND ALL!

GËZUAR FESTAT E FUNDVITIT SI DHE SUKSESE NË 2007!

Thursday, December 21, 2006

A celebration for Lina

Among the season’s festivities, the one I attended on Sunday was a special one for
a long term, dear friend, who turned 99 on that day.  

Angela, mostly known as Lina, but also called GrandMa, Nonna, and Ma, was surrounded by 4 generations of descendants that include 10 great grandchildren, lots of great nieces and nephews, in addition to a host of other friends.



We all had a wonderful time at a cozy restaurant in the area of Queens, N.Y.  


The luncheon started around 1pm, and it went on for 5 hours with lots of good, hearty Italian food and a huge strawberry shortcake (her favorite) to close the feast.

The lady we all love is physically frail, but her mind and stamina are to be admired.  During the entire afternoon she greeted a lot of people, who were swarming around her with balloons, flowers, gifts, and a lot chatting.

It was practically impossible to take a good picture of her because the crowd was hard to navigate, when everyone happily moved around to talk not only to her, but with everyone else around, to get updated on each other’s news, and to take photos of the event.   Some flew into town just for the occasion and it was the perfect opportunity to visit while celebrating a longevity of work and dedication to family and friends.  Happy Birthday, Lina, and many more to come!

Monday, December 18, 2006

Catching up

Again, my return flights back to NY earlier this month went very smoothly, which is quite a feat today. Austrian Airline was efficient, as usual, and their food and services are something to rave about in these times when traveling is a stressful chore and everywhere one turns may encounter some sort of problem. I must add this was all in economy class too, and I was lucky enough this time to have 3 seats to myself to boot!

As expected, however, upon arrival home I had to face the usual accumulation of mail that, especially at this time of the year, can be overwhelming, to say the least.  

The jet lag that wakes me up at 3am in NY for a few days allows me to face the task of clearing out the mail – this time it consisted of more than 520 email messages (received in just one week, and mostly junk), over 100 requests of contributions, a dozen faxes, and one full carton of catalogs, without counting the bills, and invoices that, fortunately, I can pay online as I travel.   Now I’ve got to deal with the duties of the season, the gifts, the greetings, and some special events planned by friends, in addition to the handling of papers, calls, and documentation that take a great part of time on a daily basis all year around because of the work that I am involved with, on a volunteer basis.  

NY is all decked out for the holidays, and not only in public places and stores.   Small lights and colorful decorations are everywhere now, including along all the avenues of Manhattan, on the trees and on the balconies of the high-rises, while the strong smell of pines for sale permeates many blocks and corners.


The rush is on, and the plans for holiday planning are evolving......... !

Time Out

At the end of the short stay in northern Italy, one day was reserved for a breather, before  tackling the return trip to NY.  I spent it indoors, without even putting my shoes on that day, at the home of one of my maternal cousins, located up in the mountains at the foot of the Italian/Swiss Alps.

The few hours there passed quickly with other visiting relatives and some more good food.  The air was very brisk outside, but one of the family cats found a cozy spot to snooze, on a window sill, in the feeble sunshine of the winter afternoon.  

It was the perfect day for polenta with “tapulocco” , which is shredded beef cooked in wine and spices.

No surprises in food here, while in Albania I forgot to mention previously that I saw and tasted, for the first time in my life, an exotic looking fruit native to the Dajti National Park. Its color is bright red and its size is that of small cherry tomatoes, but with a very fuzzy, however soft, peel that is surprisingly edible. When popped into the moth, its taste is sweet and resembles the one of persimmons.  


When it came time to pack to come back home from Italy, I found that I couldn’t squeeze into my suitcase the additional items received as gifts, and, I had to buy an extra duffle bag at the last moment.  

Among some of the delicacies I received was a tray of “marrons glaces” (very large glazed chestnuts) typical of the holiday season in Italy. I shall enjoy them with friends on Christmas eve.  


Saturday, December 16, 2006

Italian dining

Amidst the many appointments that I had planned, and maintained, as per daily schedule in Italy, I attended some leisurely meals at places well known for their delectable food. They were all outside of the big cities, within the general area of Piedmont, where I spent my youth, around the hills that are at the bottom of the Italian side of the Swiss Alps, which produce some of the best wines of Italy, dating back to the 13th century.  

Varied were the reasons for the dinners.  I owed one since two years ago to a local business man, who was very helpful in settling a real estate matter back then, and never charged me a fee for his service.   Another took place unexpectedly, because of the opening of a newly renovated bar, now owned by an acquaintance, who insisted that I participate while in town.   The largest dining experience, however, took place on the first Sunday of this month.  I feel honored that it was specifically planned by the local participants to coincide with my presence in town.  

The event represents an old tradition, called “Pranzo dei Coscritti”, which means “dinner for people whose birth is registered in the same year”.   The practice started almost a century ago (probably around WWI) and was restricted then only to the male population that reached the age of 18, and was then drafted into the military.  I had no idea, until a couple years ago, that this annual custom eventually extended to include women. Although it eventually departed from the military concept, it was preserved for all town people of the same age, regardless of their civil status, background or education, to enjoy a big annual luncheon affair together. The town has an organizing committee that keeps track of this population, and the day of the planned gathering initiates with attending mass, followed by a brief visit to the local cemetery, in memory of the departed ones.  


The dining usually takes place within the town, or surrounding areas, where all local specialties can be enjoyed.   These places, which may have been former farms, are now known as “agritourismo”, which, by law, are supposed to serve only home grown foods, staples, and products typical of the region.  




The affair that I have attended twice in the past couple of years starts around 1pm and lasts several hours. The rule is that if the participants are not single, the respective partners or spouses, cannot partake the luncheon, but join the group afterwards, when we usually end up at someone’s house for the rest of the day with more food, drink, and songs that stretch into the night!  

To complete the picture I should add that some of the foods served have become quite sophisticated these days, as compared to the past. The portions still are no where near what we serve in the U.S.; on the contrary, each course usually consists of a ‘taste’ of many variety of dishes for a more pleasurable dining experience, accompanied by different wines.  

It’s also interesting to notice that it’s rare to see anyone really get drunk or out of order, if when a bit tipsy.   The sipping and nibbling that spans over the entire day must have a beneficial effect, and these events turn out to be a real joy!

Monday, December 11, 2006

L.I.U.C.

My first full day in Italy was spent at this rather newly established Italian university, which had extended an invitation for me to visit it since 3 years ago. Its abbreviation stands for ‘Libero Istituto Universitario Cattaneo’. It was founded in 1991 at the initiative of the Industrial Association of the province of Varese, with the goal of fostering the development of a business culture and training graduates for the business world.


This institution, (www.liuc.it), also known as Universita’ Carlo Cattaneo, is located in a tranquil, at ease, and very tidy town of 15,000 pop. : Castellanza, in the above province of Varese, part of the industrial region of Lombardy, headed by Milan, which is located about 45 minutes away by train. It takes the name from the Lombard economist, Carlo Cattaneo, who influenced its creation due to the ‘need of a locally based institute of higher learning, geared to the economic activities of this area’. The outcome was a collaborative project from authoritative exponents from universities, finance, and industry, and it offers today degrees in 3 major fields: Economics, Engineering, and Law.

Current figures include 2,400 students (of which 290 are enrolled in Professional Masters courses), 200 lecturers (full, and associate professors, researchers, and non-tenured staff), with an excellent teacher/student ratio of 1 lecturer for every 15 students. It’s equipped with good libraries, university residences (252 rooms, 468 beds), cafeteria, parking, and cabling facilities, a copy center, a laundry area, shops, and even a bank branch.

In 2005 1.200.000 euro were allocated to scholarships and other forms of student funding, with 50% reduction in tuition fees for high performers. The tuition fees for visiting students for 2006-2007 are 600 euro for semester (up to 30 credits). One of the most remarkable facts, however, in today’s difficult Italian economic/employment environment is that this university is able to guarantee all interested students at least one business placement as part of their study program (average placement time is 46 days - over 95% of graduates are employed with a year of graduation, while the Italian national average is 55% at best).

My arrival in town from Milan was delayed by an unexpected break down of the local train that came to a halt after the first 2 stops. However, when I was met at the station I was informed that the state of Italian railroads is in such a bad shape that this type of occurrence is not uncommon these days.


It was a grey, chilly day, typical of the Lombardy region in winter time, but the welcome by locals and the university was warm, and the time spent here with the head of International Relations was interesting and very pleasant.


I was taken on a complete tour of the huge campus, which covers the area once occupied by a large, privately owned, factory and villa, now converted into offices, classrooms, dormitories, and the many other facilities indicated above. The original architectural style was maintained throughout the buildings, with the interiors completely guttered out and modernized. The campus also includes a hotel, annexed to the big cafeteria, where university visitors and guests can be accommodated.

Before returning to Milan, I was treated to an excellent and relaxed lunch at one of Castellanza’s local restaurants. My day, however, did not end here. One of my Italian cousins, living in Milan, came to pick me up at the hotel around 7:30pm and I had another wonderful meal, dinner at his apartment.


The day just coincided with his birthday, thus, we also…..imbibed! The day that started at 6:30am, was over by 1:00am of the following morning, but my alarm was again set for an early rise that same day.

Winding down

My European trip, after a long stay in Albania, had an Italian interlude before my return home. I left Albania during its annual ‘flag & independence days’ festivities. The traffic on the way to the airport was light, but the flight from Tirana was completely booked, as usual. As forecasted, I arrived at the hotel in Milan in late evening.

As my friends may have gathered, the break in news in this blog covers the time I was in Italy, where I don’t have much time to go online, followed by a few days of busy catching up upon reaching home in NY. It’s always a daunting task when I get back to put my living quarters back in shape, sort out the huge accumulation of mail, and re-routinize my life to US needs and standards.

When I travel westward I also have to deal with the jetlag, contrary to most people that feel it more when going into the opposite direction. Thus, here in NY, I am wide awake at 3am; I tackle whatever I need to do with vigor, and go non-stop until about 8pm when I just totally conk out.

This is the tail end of another busy and rewarding trip, and I’ll reminisce ‘post facto’ about some of the highlights of my Italian visit in the following posts.

Sunday, November 26, 2006

Dajti National Park



Some time ago I had visited for the first time the National Park on the Dajti Mountains that surround Tirana. Then, I had gone up to it by car with local friends, and, after a long climb thru a poorly maintained, winding road, we eventually reached a very large flat area, where an old and dilapidated huge building was standing. It was empty and abandoned when I saw it, but, I was told, it had been a very active summer camp for children during the communist regime. I also distinctly remember one of my friends mentioning then that a tram way would be a great idea to make this place more easily accessible.





Today such a facility is a reality, and the modern cable car system, called by the generic European term “teleferik” in Albanian, is labeled the Dajti Express. It's the type of a ski lift, with cabins carrying 8 passengers each.

I decided to use it with another young friend, who lives in Tirana, but had not yet seen it, so that we could experience the different ride, and breathe real fresh and clean air on the top. I reminded her that I used to be in a similar position in my early days in NY. It took many years before I visited the usual touristy spots, and this happened only when I accompanied some foreign visitors to sightsee.



The weather was perfect for such a trip, with mild temperature, beautifully deep blue skies, and not a cloud in sight. We were lucky to travel by ourselves in one of the modern, air conditioned cabins, and were astonished by the route covered through this technological achievement.







From the base, the cable cars travel up and down several peaks and valleys, with a variety of landscapes. During the 15 minutes ride, we actually went over some farms, with homes and terraced land, tucked in between forested hills, then down to some rugged gorges, then up again above tree line, and finally, steeply above naked limestone rocks, to the tram landing, the surroundings of which is still being worked upon.

The modern structure is fully functional and it contains a large and well stocked bar, fast food, pizzeria, with some outside facilities and a children toy park annexed to it. Right next to it an enormous new construction, several stories high, is also taking shape. The flat countryside is the same I remembered from my previous visit (and, unfortunately, still covered with litter all over), as well as the huge ex summer camp, which, however, now looks very much under renovation. Many the tourists walking around and the locals whose children can also ride small horses that patiently snooze in the sunshine waiting for their customers.





An unpaved path leading to the ex camp, takes us to a nearby 3 story brand new building, which is a hotel, restaurant, bar. Here we decided to have a leisure lunch and I enjoyed the well known Lefreq fish with a wonderful mixture of grilled vegetables.



By the time we walked back to the cable car, the visiting crowds had increased, and we had to stay online to catch the return trip. As we took in the sights going down the mountain, we could see, in the distance, Tirana with its skyscrapers engulfed in smog, and, on the horizon, the sea shining in the setting sun.

Friday, November 24, 2006

More trivia

After a month of no water problems in Tirana, this week the shortage returned, like in the old times. Although the past two days of rain should have provided a supply of it, here one never knows whether the trouble is restricted to the building, the city zone, or widespread. Bottom line: one must adapt to the ever changing conditions, which affect the daily life in this city, Shower in the morning, or shower at night? Laundry in the AM, or in the PM? The change of time may be inconvenient, but, eventually, it all gets done somehow.

Speaking of liquids, it’s interesting to notice that the bottled (oligo-mineral) water produced in Albania is quite properly labeled since it includes all the data required for approval by the European Community. I guess Albania is one step ahead in this respect, since it aspires so much to become a member of the European Union, but still needs to wait a while for this to become a reality.



Meantime, I dread the thought of going to northern Italy now because winter is already in full swing in the Piedmont region I have to visit, and it practically rains every day, while in Tirana the sun has reappeared again today, and it surely felt like springtime. No wonder so many beautiful palms trees thrive in this city!

Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Upcoming holidays

With this week I perceive a sense of hurry everywhere, not only for me personally, since my time in Tirana is running out, but also because the holiday season is coming up all over. Autumn is still ongoing, and even Tirana is affected by the change of colors, as shown in this small park for children, with yellow leaves paving all sidewalks along the boulevards.





A few spots, however, still exhibit wonderful displays of freshly bloomed, beautifully flowers, usually not typical of this season. The sunny weather has helped along this month with springtime temperatures at midday.


For some people the time stands still, however, and I am wondering why this young man felt so comfortable at 2pm, perched up on a garbage bin, in the middle of a busy commercial street in Tirana e Re (new Tirana).


This is my opportunity to wish all my friends and acquaintances in the U.S. a "Happy Thanksgiving Day" on Thursday, and to advance to all my Albanian friends and relatives a “wonderful and serene Flag and Independence Days” on November 28 and 29.

I’ll be traveling to Italy then, but shall be back in NY early next month, just about in time for the year end holidays. I still have to complete a lot of things in Albania, but, as usual, I am always rushed in the past few days. Although I try to plan and schedule tasks and meetings as soon as possible, I am invariably delayed by the way other people live here, and….. I must go with the local flow!

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Another day of rest

Another Sunday with Albanian friends, who insisted I spend the day at their home. I planned to reach their apartment after a visit to the family plot at the cemetery, where I hadn’t been yet since my latest arrival in Tirana. It’s not the only burial ground of the capital, but this one that I am familiar with, and houses 3 different sections, has doubled in size in the past 13 years that I have come to it.


On the way this morning, I made some observations. The traffic in Tirana, for the past few years, has always been heavy, but, this time it seems the number of vehicles must have dramatically increased, for two reasons: very often now, one moves a bit forward and then must come to a full stop because of a car jam, and the smog is so thick it could be cut with a knife! Both conditions have been experienced in the past, but not to this excess, and when I observed the smog today, it was only 11 o’clock in the morning!

Another culprit is also the large amount of dust everywhere due to continuous large buildings’ construction, as well as upgrading and repaving of streets, which still necessitate a great deal of intervention to meet today’s telecommunication and traffic requirements. There are still, however, many very old, one/two story houses in town, which are quite a contrast to the modern means of transport, as the following pictures shows. As shabby as the house on the left looks, I was surprised to see that it accommodates a restaurant and a bar!


The bountiful, and delicious, full course lunch at my friends’ home was followed by a few hours of interesting conversation on a variety of subjects and I am always thankful and delighted of learning something new, as it was today. I even came home with a ‘care package’ that was sneaked into my bag!

Saturday, November 18, 2006

Mementos and some daily trivia

Today I enjoyed a long visit by a good friend, a well known historian and writer, who surprised me with an unexpected, but quite welcomed gift. During one of his many visits at the Albanian Public Library (he actually spends most of his time there and at the National Archives doing all sorts of fascinating researches), he, very coincidentally, found an copy of an old Albanian newspaper, the front page of which includes the announcement of the wedding of my father and mother a long time ago in Rome, Italy.

For some time now he has gone through many old archival files of my family, the Court of Cassation, and the Council of State of Albania, in search of significant papers dealing with my father, who was a lawyer, Chief of the Cassation Court when I was born, and later on also a Member of the State Council. So far he has collected more than 500 documents that reflect my father’s legal opinions, judgments, and objections throughout his career, which, he feels very strongly, should be collected and published for future use and reference. While we reminisced a bit (his father was also an attorney), we also discussed a lot about current situations in the country, the still persisting problems, and the hopes for the future of Albania.

This was this morning. Now, as I am writing, the Italian TV channels are going nuts about the marriage of Tom Cruise and his Katie that will take place in about half hour in the huge castle of the small town of Bracciano (north of Rome). The direct coverage shows the arrival of the many foreign guests, and mentions the only Italian one, Andrea Bocelli, who will be singing at the party. Their cars find their way up the ramp to the castle lined with lit torches, while on the top of the 3 towers flags are flying in the late afternoon breeze. The town is jammed with on lookers, cameramen and reporters, and everyone is doing a booming business, especially the people lucky enough to have their apartments facing the entrance to the estate. More than 3,000 euros is going price for the privilege of such sites for just a few hours!

For me it’s time for a break, and I am going to enjoy a couple of Albanian tangerines (called ‘mandarins’) that you can find everywhere here and they are so sweet!

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Way of life

The other day I found myself assessing the interesting phenomena on how differently I feel physically when I am in Albania. For the past two years I have noticed that while in NY I suffer from acute osteo-arthritic pains most of the times, when I arrive in Tirana these pains seem to subside drastically! How come? Someone ventured the idea that it may be due to the different barometric pressure. Whatever it is I am thankful, although Tirana is still one of the most polluted cities in the world.

Because my affairs require me to travel frequently to Albania, several of my friends on both sides of the Atlantic have questioned me whether I would consider coming back to live permanently in my country of origin. My answer has been that I would never completely leave the country where I spent most of my life, but I must admit that the above phenomena is an additional incentive to spend more time in Albania, in addition to the fact that here I have rediscovered old friends and acquaintances, made many new ones in the past few years, and I really feel at home every time I come back.

Bottom line is that I am lucky enough to have 2 very comfortable places to live in, but the way of life in both is so different! In Tirana, for instance, I enjoy a larger kitchen, completely inundated by sunshine every morning, that allows me to have breakfast with my back warming up by the hot rays that come through the balcony door, which can be kept open for a few hours even during this season.

On the street people usually stroll, rarely rush, and good friends habitually promenade arm in arm. A perfect example was in front of me the other day when, on the way home from a meeting, two small students, happy to have concluded another school day, were slowly proceeding under the weight of their huge back backs, embraced as two good buddies would do.

Sunday, November 12, 2006

An ideal Sunday

Today it turned out to be a warm Sunday in more than one sense. The weather was just perfect - sunny and no wind - and one family of friends came to visit making the day a very pleasant get together. We hadn’t seen each other for several months so we had a lot to catch up with.

While imbibing aperitifs at my place I was able to convince them to have a leisure lunch with me at one of Tirana e Re restaurants. This most modern district of the capital is a very busy and crowded business center during the work week, but today it was a pleasure to walk along its tree lined, almost deserted avenues. Few the strollers on the streets, but quite a few families inside the “Tavernetta” that offers a large, self service salad bar, and good main courses. A bottle of good Sangiovese Tuscany red wine accompanied our meal, which lasted more than a couple of hours.


On the way back we ended up making a couple of stops. Days ago, from a distance, I had noticed a display of very large old photographs in front of the Parliament building, and I really wanted to study them closely. I was informed that this display was the idea of the current Head of Parliament, Mrs. Josephina Topalli.

To my great surprise they depict politicians whose names I’m familiar with, since they were in government during the early days of my family, and I recognized some of them from similar photos that I inherited from those days.



The second stop was a visit to the new supermarket, of the Italian chain ‘Conad’, which is housed in one of newest business centers in Tirana, called, I believe, the European Tower.
The building houses several offices, banks, and the supermarket

One of the building 2 main entrances

Here I couldn’t resist buying some of my favorite Italian foods, which were carried home for me by the youngest member of my friends, a 16 year old, bright and excellent student, who at the age of 9 was known as the youngest Albanian painter, and now dreams of becoming an architect.


An ideal and relaxing day overall, indeed, among devoted friends!